For all the charm of its crumbling colonial past, Yangon is one of South East Asia’s grittier cities (think Jakarta, with only mildly less gridlock). But as Myanmar continues its slow, forward-backward steps toward opening up, the former capital is becoming a boomtown for both Burmese and foreigners on the make, and a fascinating microcosm of a nation in flux. Here are at least five reasons why now’s a great time to go see the city for yourself.