The hype: Opened by four young Singaporeans formerly in the hawker trade, No Milk hopes to refresh the palate and the notion that fish soup without milk isn’t worth having. Neighbouring office folk can pop by for the clear soups in the day; or come at night for when the bistro on the second floor turns into a buzzy cocoon of drinks, fusion bar bites, and chilled vibes.
The vibe: The two-storey shophouse unit in Bugis houses an unassuming coffeshop setup downstairs, and a cosy neon-lit space above (open from 5:30pm). The second floor opens out onto a rooftop too, for days when your conversations are better enjoyed in the crisp night air.
The food: Shake off your prejudices about hawker food in a modern setup. 29-year-old Chef Hoe Gern takes pride in highlighting the flavour intensity of his Teochew-style, milk-less broths, available in Sliced Fish Soup ($6) and Fried Fish Soup ($6). The verdict? Flavourful enough for you to forget your standard milky fish soup order. $6 a bowl might seem a little steep for the casual fare, but No Milk uses only the freshest ingredients—mackerel for the sliced fish, seabass for the fried, plus a generous sheet of Japanese Nori in place of seaweed.
Come evening, you can still order the fish soups to have upstairs. But take the chance to try the bistro’s full menu instead, consisting mainly of handmade pastas, grilled meats and finger food. The tagliatelle egg pastas are easily the highlight, made without water for an extra chewy, almost al dente bite. Go for the Asian flavours like the Beef Rendang ($16.80) that’s slightly sweeter than your usual rendang, Mala Bacon and Shiitake ($15.80), or our personal favourite—the Thai Red Curry with Tiger Prawns ($18.80), with its deceptive spice that builds at the end at the back of your throat.
Complement your meal with a range of sharing plates like Con Queso with Corn Chips ($7) and meats from the charcoal grill—Secret Recipe Pork Belly ($12.80) and Homemade Black Charsiu ($12.80) are literal easy pickings.
The drinks: A robust selection of local craft beers, fruity sakes and Korean soju, capped at $20, makes No Milk a versatile new bar haunt.
Why you’ll be back: The arrival of a homely comfort food stop (and one opened by Singaporeans) in an area packed with Middle Eastern dining has been a long time coming. It’s reliable, gimmick-free places like No Milk that everyday diners return to, day after day. And the next time an oddly specific craving for comforting fish soup alongside craft beer and hearty pasta strikes, you know where to go.
