How to spend 48 hours in Ubud

Away from the tourist bustle of Bali’s beaches, Ubud has forged a reputation as the island’s cultural heart. Here, nature and tradition meet modern art and dining. Take note of this whistle-stop tour.

 

 

Trade the waves for some white-water rafting on Ubud’s Ayung River, the longest in Bali. Several companies operate rafting services; we tried Bali Toekad Rafting (balitoekadrafting.com) who offer all the necessary gear, meals, lockers and showering facilities. The river winds its way through scenic rice fields and offers class II rapids so all you need are basic paddling skills (though beware they can rise to class IV during the reainy season from Nov-Mar). Along the route, you will witness beautiful waterfalls, dense forests and giant rocks carved with the Ramayana epic. The white water rafting trip starts at US$75 ($103), including lunch, or you can go tubing for US$69 ($95). Try both adventures for US$95 ($131). 

 

 

Afterwards, enjoy the more peaceful views of the nearby Tegallalang Rice Terraces. These iconic rice paddies are a result of subak, a Balinese irrigation system dating to the 9th century. This system is even heritage-listed by a UNESCO, though this officially refers to the original subak system at the 18th-century Royal Water Temple of Pura Taman Ayun to the southwest of Ubud. 

 

 

If you still have energy, spend your afternoon at The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (monkeyforestubud.com). This large, garden-like sanctuary aims to conserve the area based on the Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana (“three reasons for prosperity,” which refers to harmony among people, nature or environment, and God). Though the sanctuary offers a tranquil escape, just be aware the monkeys can get aggressive if they see you carrying food. 

 

 

One of the greatest dinners on the island can be found at nearby Laka Leke Restaurant (www.lakaleke.com),  which serves the likes of bebek putu (roasted duck with sauteed vegetables served with rice at a well-priced IDR 105.500 [$10.67]) alongside a variety of superb Balinese dance performances. The fire dance is stunning, in particular.

---

Day 2: Art Exploration

 

Start your art wanderings at The Neka Art Museum. Founded by Balinese teacher Suteja Neka, the museum is the place to go to trace the origins of Balinese painting, with one piece even dating back to the 19th century. Next stop is Don Antonio Blanco Museum (blancomuseum.com), whose founder, Spanish painter Antonio Blanco, was dubbed the Salvador Dali of Bali. Known for sexually-charged, often-controversial depictions of Balinese women, the painter used to live in this giant mansion with his Balinese wife and four children. 

 

Take lunch at Rondji Restaurant (rondjirestaurantubud.com), which is situated at the entrance of Don Antonio Blanco Museum. They serve fine modern Balinese and European dishes with wonderful terrace views of the rice fields. If you head there on Sunday, you can enjoy a barbecue brunch, too.

 

Just 10 minutes’ walk away is Museum Puri Lukisan (museumpurilukisan.com). Opened in 1956 by Dutch artist Rudolf Bonnet, Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati, the former Prince of Ubud (1910-1978), and his brother, Tjokorda Gde Raka Sukawati, the museum hosts a one-of-a-kind collection of Balinese paintings and woodcarvings. Now, it’s also active in hosting exhibitions for emerging artists. The museum’s cafe and bookshop are well worth a look too. Another art-centric venue nearby is Agung Rai Museum (www.armabali.com/museum), which gathers works from Balinese, Indonesian and foreign artists amid exquisite botanical gardens.

 

After all that browsing, spend some money wisely at Ubud Market. Recently in the headlines for the wrong reasons (one section caught fire in March), the market is packed full of arty souvenirs and real-deal artworks. From there, you can easily head to Ubud Palace to witness its gorgeous Balinese architecture. 

 

For dinner, make your way to Bridge (bridgesbali.com), one of the most reputed restaurants in Ubud. Serving mostly modern Balinese cuisine, the restaurant’s highlights include the mixed vegetables and marinated tempe with green curry and lontong (pressed rice) at IDR125.000 ($12.65). They also have a gluten-free menu. 

---

Essentials 

Where to stay