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Levant

It isn’t easy to make it in the Greenwood dining enclave. Sure, the neighborhood may look suburban and welcoming, but the competition is cut throat. Many new entries barely last a year and since 2012, the area has seen around 10 closures. To survive, restaurants must be casual enough for a mid-week dinner (most diners live in the area) but sophisticated too (those upper middle class folks know their food).

Levant, however, looks like it has a fighting chance. This Middle Eastern restaurant is homey yet exotic. It’s a cozy space featuring brick-lined walls and pretty mosaic tile-covered tables, all bathed in warm light. They have a special niche—Lebanese, Persian and Arabic food—on the shop-house stretch (where Japanese food and European cuisine is already well represented). 

And the grub is well priced too. The affordable set lunch goes for just $15 (soup, kebab, rice, dessert and coffee), while the main menu is full of simple soul satisfying dishes. Check out the soup of the day ($7.50)—when we visited it was a sinus-clearing ginger broth—and the speciality grills. We’d come back for the juicy swish tawooq ($28), grilled chicken with saffron, and the halabi kebab ($29), tender minced lamb. From the appetizers, the watery hummus ($10) and bland stuffed vine leaves ($15) were lackluster, so skip those.

Otherwise, Levant’s a really solid joint for a satisfying—and far from boring—meal.