2019 saw Charoenkrung’s hipster hangout go upscale: kitchen bar seats, tasting menu, wine pairing and craft cocktails. Fermentation remains at the heart of chef Napol Jangprai’s 13-course menu, whether its a sinfully crisped slice of pork belly topped with infused mushroom and served with a fermented chili sauce or a tangy coconut cream with smoked goby fish. Desserts by Japanese pastry chef Saki Hoshino forego sweetness in favor of sublimely challenging new flavors.
