As a natural consequence of its Japanese provenance, the word “omakase” most often conjures a mental image of traditional sushi-yas, where hinoki wood counters and immaculately hand-moulded morsels of vinegared rice and fresh seafood reign supreme.
Ammakase is not one of these restaurants. It is a neo-Indian fine-dining concept recently opened in the heart of the Central Business District seeking to combine the concept of omakase – which, literally translated, means “I leave it up to you” – with time-worn recipes passed down generations of amma (mothers in Tamil).
Expect a rich culinary bounty of traditional flavours hailing from the coastal areas of India and Sri Lanka, here given a modern makeover with gastronomic inflections from Japan, France, Italy and other Asian cuisines.
These are available in a variety of tasting menu configurations, ranging from a compact six-course executive set lunch (from $79++) to a luxurious eight-course experiential menu (from $189++), where guests can get up close and personal with the action at the eight-seat Chef’s Table.
Executive chef Abhijit Saha has a lot on his plate, but he has managed to showcase the diversity of flavours from the sub-continent. He shares that the menu is a testament to the warmth of a mother’s love. “Every dish tells a story and every bite evokes a memory, yet is something diners haven’t tried before,” he says. The restaurant also collaborates with local farms across Singapore, ensuring an ever-changing seasonal and locally sourced menu.
Creative interpretations of Bengali chaat start the first course. Here, street food is elevated with avocado and Malabar crab. Subsequent dishes like Goan Cured Hamachi, Vijayawada Grilled Pacific Rock Lobster and Jamnagar Pan Sear Garam Masala Duck (the chef’s signature) delivers a commendable hit of South Indian spices without being too empowering.
For mains, diners can choose chicken, fish or lamb. We recommend the fork-tender Bombay Lamb Seekh Kebab that’s served with Hyderabad Haleem (a porridge-like stew) and Saffron Biryani.
For those who are looking to imbibe as they feast, wine, whisky or cocktail pairings from the resident sommelier are also available.
The sumptuously appointed main dining room, which bears modern, glossy finishings accented with a touch of traditional Indian charm, offers guests a suitably comfortable dining experience if conviviality is in order. Otherwise, the lush private dining area offers discretion for up to 24 diners at a single seating.
Ammakase is at #04-48, One Raffles Place, Singapore 048616.
Additional text by Nida Seah.
