Singaporean chef Ace Tan has opened Asu, a progressive Asian restaurant dedicated to blending the tenets of traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) with the treasured food memories of his childhood.
Asu stands for “Asian secrets uncovered”, a reference to Tan’s discovery of influences from Asian cultures through his research and development. The name also refers to “Asia and you” where he brings the discovery of Asian cuisine and culture to “you”, the diner.
Inside, the old and new come together in a space dominated by recycled timber, oxidised bronze and greyscale concrete. Every effort has been made and detail architected to evoke the restaurant’s ethos of “eating simply and well” with an aesthetic anchored on nature and simplicity. Taking pride of place is the 15-seat grand arc of the Chef’s Dining Table at the main dining hall. Reserve a seat here to get up close and personal to the culinary action – and to admire a custom-made Chinese medicine cabinet set in the wall, serving both as a callback to Tan’s influences (his extended family ran a TCM shop) and to display the healthful ingredients demanded of the restaurant’s virtuous cuisine.
The first episode of Asu’s tasting menu – which changes twice every season – is titled Origins and centres around the personal food memories of Tan, now 16 years deep into the Singapore food scene with tenures at casual and fine-dining establishments.
Expect childhood favourites like shui jing bao (crystal dumpling), salted vegetable duck soup (a family favourite), and pulut hitam (dessert made of black glutinous rice and coconut milk) reimagined in fine-dining form.
Notable mentions include Yin Yang, where “yin’ is baby radish pickled in Taiwanese peppercorn rice vinegar, while “yang” is burdock pickled in aged shoyu vinegar. Vinegar is thought to boost stamina to counter fatigue from hot weather, quench thirst, lower blood pressure, regulate qi (our vital force) and blood circulation, and detoxify the body.
Oyster Bao is Tan’s version of the Fuzhou oyster cake (a deep-fried fritter stuffed with oysters) that has been reimagined as a steamed bun. It is filled with oysters and pork jowl marinated in Asu’s house-made oyster sauce, and topped with a crisp tuille to mimic the pan-fried finish of the oyster cake. Oysters are known to be high in micronutrients such as Vitamin B12, zinc, selenium, and iron.
Ngor Hiang is an elevated take on ngoh hiang where house-made yuba cradles red-legged prawn, five-spice-marinated pork belly, black fungus and water chestnut, served alongside a deep-fried prawn head fritter. Shunde Yu Sheng is an ode to the local staple of raw fish, a dish where kanpachi (greater amberjack) is aged in kombujime seaweed for five days and paired with chilled noodles, celtuce, lettuce and doused in a galangal dressing. The fish is known for its richness in minerals, particularly Omega-3 fats which offer benefits that range from improved memory and concentration to prevention of high cholesterol and heart disease.
Naturally, pains are also taken to ensure that all seasonal ingredients used are of peak quality, and when flavours are at their finest and health benefits at their most effective. The result is a menu that gives renewed meaning to “dietary therapy” and a cuisine where indulgence and health are part of an evolving personal narrative.
Asu is at 30 Labrador Villa Rd, Singapore 119189.
