These are not your grandmother’s pearls. From fun quirky pieces to ultra-modern designs, these jewellery brands are making pearls fashionable for the younger generation.
Spheres of influence
Pearls for men? Yes please. It was that collaboration between Mikimoto x Comme des Garçons which made pearls uber fashionable for men. It began with an innovative vision by Rei Kawakubo: to adorn “Men in Pearls.” In an era when “pre-existing values are rapidly evolving,” Mikimoto hopes to further promote the beauty and potential of pearls through impactful collaborations. “To adorn the necks of all, regardless of age or gender. This is a new challenge for Mikimoto, as the originator of cultured pearls.”
The newer Passionoir by Mikimoto aims to woo Gen-Z with inspirations from “the chemical reaction brought by the strong contrast between the innocent beauty of pearls, combined with the powerful and mysterious black colour. Passionoir further pursues the possibilities of pearls, according to the brand. The designs feature Black South Sea cultured pearls and diamonds; the necklace (featured in the article) has a diamond clasp that invokes the jet blackness of the pearls.
After more than ten years of working with pearls, Melanie Georgacopoulos’ affection and passion towards pearls have only increased. The jewellery designer, famed for cleaving the pearls, has an eponymous brand and another line that she designs in collaboration with Tasaki. “Often in M/G Tasaki pieces, the material follows the design rather than the other way around. For this particular collection, I wanted to use as less metal as possible for a minimal but timeless look,” says Georgacopoulos.
The aim was to develop the very popular Arlequin Collection in a way that someone owning pieces from that collection could easily add pieces from new Arlequin Slashed and wear them all together. “By adding a thin layer of 18k yellow gold, it contrasts with the white colour of the pearl but also adds shine and reflection to each piece. The angle at which each gold cap is placed is a subtle but effective way to create a sense of fluidity in each piece of jewellery, the eye flows from pearl to pearl effortlessly,” she adds.
Transform and sparkle
Kavant & Sharart’s Twist Reflection is a great way to glow up your ears. Opt for their multi-wear pieces with jackets that are heavily inspired by Swedish artist Hilma af Klint’s oil on canvas artwork – The Swan. “We imagined the painting to be in motion, which resulted in the jacket design where you can transform the earrings,” says co-founder Shar-Linn Liew Yongkiettakul.
The designers have used Akoya pearls in the Twist Reflection that has a series of arc that can be twisted and turned on a pearl or gem studded hinge. “We like the pearls because it has this superb lustre and radiance. It’s quite irreplaceable,” she adds.
Parisian fine jewellery brand Persée was envisioned to offer a more contemporary approach to jewellery, based on laser-drilled diamonds. Founder Nawal Laoui bagged the ‘Best in Pearls’ award at the Couture 2023 jewellery show for her ear cuff. The award-winning piece is a fine marriage of modernity and elegance.
“I am so grateful and honoured to receive this award. It’s the accomplishment of many years of passion and hard work,” says a thrilled Laoui. Inspired by the allure of pearls and the sparkle of diamonds, the ear cuffs sport delicate chains. “The design draws its inspiration from the interplay between light, movement and nature,” she explains. “Each side of the fluid earring showcases an intricate arrangement of 10 chains, gracefully cascading down like a gentle waterfall.”
Contemporary jewellery brand Nomis won the second prize for its pearl necklace at Couture 2023. Designer Alyona Kiperman delves into various realms such as art, industrial architecture and ballet to create her collections. She eschews tradition to create edgy pieces – case in point her stylish earpin with lustrous black pearls.
Oversized round hoops with delicate flowers in gold set with diamonds and Japanese pearls from Moksh’s Day Dream collection, embodying the brand’s artistry, and the mother-of-pearl gold hoops in a boxy form designed by Yvonne Leon are fun additions for hoop lovers.
W. Rosado’s black rhodium plated gold pendant earrings featuring a single black Tahitian pearl, inlaid with white diamond, remain suspended by a cascade of glittering diamonds, while Hirotaka plays with shapes to offer a contemporary take on pearl earrings.
Peggy Grosz, senior vice-president of Assael, is on a mission to spread her love of pearls. “To me, pearls are soft and powerful at the same time. When you think about it, any kind of true power never screams – and pearls don’t scream. That’s a kind of magic.”
Grosz uses pearls because they pair incredibly well with metals and just about any gemstone. “They add a dimension to a piece of jewellery and the wearer,” she adds. Striped agate frames Assael’s new earrings accented with Japanese Akoya and South Sea cultured pearls.
Something about pearls is just so elegant and sophisticated, muses George Inaki Root, CEO and ceative director of Milamore. “The idea of them coming from the sea is also romantic,” he adds. “I like freshwater pearls too because they have more interesting shapes.”
The latest pearl creations are based on his classic Duo chains, which were his very first design. Instead of using the anchor chain, Root has used Japanese Akoya pearls and paired them with a paperclip chain and lobster claw clasp inspired by antique pocket watch chains. “It’s a classic yet modern and playful combination. I’m all about elevating everyday jewellery with a touch of edginess,” he informs. The baroque pearls for the new line are sourced from the South Sea.
Modern and versatile
Milanese designers Chiara Capitani and Romy Blanga, co-founders of Eéra, like to mix traditional and modern elements together. “This approach can be found in several of our designs and the double Reine necklace with pearls is one of them,” say the duo. The 18k gold chain can be separated from the freshwater pearl strand and worn as two separate necklaces, depending on the wearer’s styling preference.
Jacquie Aiche’s mother-of-pearl and onyx inlay alien necklace, Boochier’s colourful pearl and bead necklace with a Hello Kitty medallion, Tejen’s curvy pearl ring and Pacharee’s textured pearl band ring, Nadine Aysoy’s Catena petite pearl ring with a dangling diamond – all echo the pearl spirit.
A version of this article first appeared on Solitaire.
