What’s the inspiration and concept for Esquina?
It’s just a continuation of my love affair with Spain really; I love the culture. Every chef always dreams of opening up a restaurant that they would eat at themselves, and this is exactly the type of place that chefs would go and hang out. To be able to do this tapas bar here, is fantastic. There’s a no reservations policy, but that’s just the way traditional tapas bars are.
You’re making your presence felt in Asia, first in Shanghai with Table No. 1, and now in Singapore. Do you have any other plans down the line?
I’m actually opening up Pollen Restaurant in June next year. It’ll be at Gardens by the Bay and will feature Mediterranean cuisine inspired by the food of Spain, France and Italy, with plates meant for sharing. We’re looking at doing about 100 covers with a nice glass kitchen and people will actually be eating in a real live garden amid 1000-year-old fig, lemon and olive trees.
How would you describe your cooking philosophy?
My mantra is one foot in the past and one foot in the future, so I’m very forward thinking. There’s no such thing as new ingredients but I’m always looking for new techniques, new ideas; but I’ll only use it if it suits my cuisine. At the same time, I never let go of the past. For instance, one of my dishes at Pollen Street, Tongue in Cheek, has braised ox cheek which is done the traditional way, the classic way it’s been in France for hundreds of years. Why change it if it doesn’t improve it?
What’s the weirdest ingredient you’ve ever served?
When I was in Shanghai at Table No. 1, I worked with elephant clams (geoduck). I saw it when I was in the market with my sous chef and I just thought that’s the ugliest thing I’ve ever seen. He convinced me to try some and it was delicious, so I decided to use it. I blanched it, froze it and shaved it on top of a sashimi of scallops.
Anything else we should know about you?
I drink too much coffee; several skinny cappuccinos followed by black coffees. I’m also impatient and demanding, but I’m fair. I would never expect my guys to do what I wouldn’t do; I clean down with them after service. Whatever I do, I just want to be the best; I don’t care about the money.
What’s the most important thing to you as a chef?
One of the biggest compliments a guest can say to me when they leave is that the food was delicious, that’s really all that matters.
For more information, see news of Esquina’s opening.
