Singapore’s New Bakeries

It’s a good time to be a bakery lover in Singapore. French chains such as PAUL and Maison Kayser have opened their first branches on Orchard Road while international celeb chefs are setting up bake shops in neighborhoods like Greenwood and Tiong Bahru. We put five of the most recent arrivals through a taste test in search of the best pastry fix.

Baker and Cook

Opened: January
The place: A laid-back space with lightwood communal tables and plenty of coffee table books to peruse in the well-to-do Greenwood area.
Background: Respected Kiwi baker Dean Brettschneider is behind this airy bakery which has an avid following, not just among the area residents.
The goods: The apple tart ($4.50), which is topped with a pretty fan of brûléed apple slices, is cinnamon-y and comforting. The lemon tart ($5) is a sweet (some might say overly so) crowd-pleaser. The croissants ($3.20) are not quite as good. They are unevenly baked at the bottom and some bites are burnt.
Verdict:
Good for: Picking up homey creations in a residential neighborhood.

Baker and Cook is located at 77 Hillcrest Road.

Donq

Opened: April
The place: In Takashimaya’s basement food hall, with no seating available. Expect the typical quick service Asian bakery.
Background: Already an established name in its country of origin, this Japanese purveyor of fluffy baked treats has been in the business for 106 years.
The goods: The spinach and sausage bun ($2.80) is the bakery’s specialty but wasn’t our bag. The sausage is chopped so small that it tastes dry and unappealing. A better pick would be the butter-dotted disc of brioche sucre ($2.40) or the chocolate boule ($2) which boasts chunks of decent quality dark chocolate.
Verdict:
Good for: An interesting spin on simple soft white bread.

Donq is located at Basement 2 of Takashimaya Food Hall.

Maison Kayser

Opened: December
The place: An open concept joint at the basement of swank new mall Scotts Square.
Background: The name behind this establishment is French pastry master Eric Kayser. The chef is known for infusing international flavors into traditional French recipes.
The goods: Choose from a wide range of single-serve rolls, some with innovative Asian flavors, including the crusty pain aux yuzu ($3.08). They also do airy croissants ($2.43) and tender rounds of petit brioche ($2.34). Tarts are hit or miss though. The tarte citron ($4.40) has a dense eggy, almost curdled filling.
Verdict:
Good for: Inventive rolls and reliable (barring the lemon tart) pastries all round.

Maison Kayser is located at basement 1 of Scotts Square.

Paul

Opened: January
The place: Occupies a large spot that was formerly The Coffee Club. It’s a none-too-atmospheric mall joint with clear views of the shopping center atrium.
Background: This sprawling outlet is more of a destination pâtisserie than the French chain’s grab-and-go branches overseas. They bake bread on-premises but prepare dessert pastries at a facility in Jurong.
The goods: Dryness is an issue. The brioche ($2.20) is so lean that it is hard to swallow and the generously-sized croissant ($2.30) is baked beyond bien cuit—it’s downright burnt. The sliced lemon tart ($6.70) tastes fine but is too delicate to hold up on a taxi ride back to the office.
Verdict:
Good for: A post-shopping snack to grab and go.

Paul is located at level 3, Ngee Ann City Tower A.

Tiong Bahru Bakery

Opened: May
The place: This spare space in neighborhood of the moment, Tiong Bahru, has an old school vibe with tiled floors and a retro Chinese-character logo by the entrance.
Background: Come early to snag best sellers at this perpetually packed 40-seater bakery, a new joint venture between French celeb chef Gontran Cherrier and the Spa Esprit Group.
The goods: The croissants ($2.50) are the main draw here and with good reason. The layers are distinct and pull apart easily. There are also chocolate ($3.20) and chocolate almond ($3.50) versions, which while not quite as flaky, don’t suffer from the same collapsed structure that plagues most filled pastries.
Verdict:
Good for: Its croissants that blow the competition away.