Making full use of almost every part of the animal, nose-to-tail restaurant Dehesa is opening this Friday and at its helm is chef Jean-Philippe (JP) Patruno, of Bomba and Una fame. It’s not a new concept in Singapore, especially when it comes to Chinese dining, but he serves up creative takes on normally unsexy parts nonetheless.
Dehesa is cozy, intimate and very communal—you’ll likely be sharing a table with other diners—with a buzzing open-concept kitchen. Not ground breaking, but still it’s comfortably casual. The most palatable stars of the evening are the sauteed ducks’ hearts on toast ($10), soaked 24 hours in vinegar to tenderize the meat; the octopus wrapped in a glistening, fine layer of lardo ($28), and the Iberico jowls ($28), a tender, melt-in-your-mouth delight. But if you absolutely must have one thing, then the bone marrow ($22 for two), which came bursting with juices, will start you off on the right note.
Those more apprehensive about offal might want to tread carefully with the Dehesa platter of cold meats ($25), with pig head, pig ear, fifi pate and dry, cured sausage. While you can’t fault the inventive use of these parts, it could taste a little too gamey for the uninitiated.
All in all, the food is ripe for adventurous taste buds (with safe options for the more conservative), and JP’s warm and easy-going demeanor makes for an enjoyable ride through the nose to tail experience.
