We were the only non‑Japanese customers in the restaurant—which was an excellent sign. All the other diners were native Japanese eating enthusiastically and drinking copiously (and probably would have been smoking if they could) in this small, authentic yakitori joint opened by the Aburiya chain that has made its name in Japanese grill.

There are about half a dozen tables outside, and there is only one table and a counter that seats about 12 inside—a lack of space that is made tolerable when you recall the best yakitori joints in Tokyo that are notoriously cramped. Outside seating is preferable if you don’t want your hair and clothes smelling of yakitori, the likelihood of which increases as the evening wears on and the chefs fire up a storm on the barbeque.

We dove into the set dinner; with at least seven different items and lots of variety, it was a great deal that we could not resist. With an additional Wagyu beef skewer and scallops, we covered a lot of ground. Our starter of spinach salad in sesame and soy sauce dressing was fresh and delicious, and it was followed by a stream of very tasty yakitori skewers: Chicken thigh done two ways, chicken wings, chicken liver, meatballs—there was more than we could keep track of. By the time we reached the penultimate soba course, we were wholly satisfied. The green tea ice cream that closed the meal was also perfect.

You could easily spend twice as much somewhere else and get something only half as good. The service too was friendly and brisk; with the small team of wait staff managing to keep up with the almost full‑capacity restaurant. We’d definitely be back and bring guests here too.