Occupying the former premises of Luke’s Oyster Bar & Chop House, this no-frills, casual dining restaurant features a restrained (but still hearty) menu of Italian-American plates with a Californian slant.

The food may be more robust and Italian than Californian (which favors a more breezy, lean and green ingredients), but the restaurant already has a much raved-about reputation here. Order highlights like Angeleno’s meatballs ($22), served with wood-fired polenza and tomato sauce or the signature veal chop Parmigiana ($75), breaded, deep-fried and served with red sauce and melted mozzarella.