You’ve got to love the Duxton renaissance. Last time we reviewed the Bar Restaurant On The Hill (Broth) it was 2006, and its nearest neighbors were girlie bars offering warm beer, forced smiles and broken darts. Those bars are still there, of course, lending the ’hood an edge that’s been thoroughly scrubbed away elsewhere; but in the last 12 months alone, Broth has been joined by Spanish joint Sabio, French steak and frites spot L’Entrecôte, traditional Brit outpost The Jackson Plan, Singapore newbie Wok & Barrel, and Buyan, flying the flag for Russia.
With such a glut of options, and having stuffed ourselves trying the rest, we figured it was time to go back to where it all began. Actually, we come to Broth pretty regularly for alfresco drinks on the oft-deserted street out front; it’s one of the most civilized and underappreciated after-hours venues in the city. But we hadn’t eaten here for too long and, on balance, that’s a shame.
Not everything we ate was worth coming back for, with the sirloin steak ($39) a particular disappointment; for that price you’d hope for something far more substantial. But we had a fine spring asparagus risotto with black truffle-coddled egg ($20), and the desserts are worth a repeat visit on their own. The chocolate fondant ($15) positively oozed with indulgence, and tasted like our best memories of treacle toffee at Halloween. The sticky date pudding ($15) played second fiddle; but only because we couldn’t get enough of that chocolate sauce.
Food then is good, without being exceptional (or perhaps just not exceptional value); but if it’s atmosphere you’re after, this place has it in spades. The shophouse interior is as cozy as the best Euro bistro on a winter’s day; and if weather and seating allow, you really can’t beat the cobblestones outside (it just edges out L’Entrecôte which doesn’t encourage overspill in quite the same way). Service, too, is discreet and understanding; quite an achievement when they choose not to charge for it. A top spot for all kinds of reasons.
Broth will be closing in September 2014. Their last day of operations will be September 28.
