The hype: At the Arcade@The Capitol Kempinski, Frieda joins the growing portfolio of dining establishments under the swanky Capitol Kempinski Hotel. Named for Kempinski founder Berthold Kempinski’s daughter—a warm-hearted hotelier herself—the smart-casual restaurant offers authentic German fare with a refined flourish, transitioning easily into a cosy drinking hole thanks to a modest line-up of German beers.
The vibe: Comprising an indoor Dining Room, Day Bar and botanical-themed Garden, the three-part concept grounding The Capitol Kempinski makes the mall space feel cohesive at last. The restaurant extends out into what was once TAP Craft Beer Bar, offering their own line of taps in a similar no-frills setup. A mint green colour palette and floral finishings help Frieda feel as inviting as her namesake—a world away from the dark, stuffy vibes of your traditional German joints.
The food: If you came expecting pork knuckles and sausages, you’ll find yourself sorely disappointed—and in for a treat. The menu at Frieda is still hearty, but a reinterpretation of traditional German cuisine with Austrian influences. Every generously portioned plate brings a surprise in the imaginative way ingredients are married and flavours teased.
Start with Beef Consomme ($16), a light borsch-like soup with thinly sliced herbal pancake and chives, to open your palate. A more decadent starter, the Frieda Salad ($25), is a simple bowl of greens and beetroot instantly elevated by chunks of goat cheese caramelised with honey.
The selection of mains is small but mighty. You won’t go wrong with the fail-safe Traditional “Wiener Schnitzel” ($37)—a perfectly juicy veal cutlet despite its thinness, accompanied with cranberry compote and mashed potatoes; but it’s the Pretzel Dumping with Creamy Mushroom Ragout ($27) that has our heart. Using pretzels from Berthold Delikatessen next door, the “dumplings” are softened from being thoroughly soaked in mushroom ragout. It’s comfort food at its finest.
If you’re getting sweets, make it the Apple Fritters ($12) with cinnamon sugar and vanilla ice cream, or the more complex Semolina Pudding with Sour Cherry Compote ($12), a tart mousse-like treat that gets more palatable with each bite.
The drinks: Frieda’s Day Bar may have taken over a beloved City Hall watering hole, but the selection of comparably priced, ice-cold German beers on offer makes up for it. Choose from lighter wheat beers to cloudy brews like the Grevensteiner Original ($13 a bottle), affordably priced from $8 for 300ml. There’s also a hotel-exclusive Frieda Lager ($8 for 300ml)—a crisp, clear brew reminiscent of the easy-drinking beers you’ll find in supermarkets in Berlin. Otherwise, wines and spirits start from $8 a glass.
Why you’ll be back: It’s a toss-up between the bar and the restaurant for what makes Frieda great. You’ll be hard-pressed to find another place that does German cuisine so elegantly and enticingly; or a bar in City Hall with $11 foreign pints.
