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Modern Asia—Tsubaki

The sheer variety of dishes here can look overwhelming, especially if your knowledge of Japanese cuisine does not extend beyond sushi, tempura and teppanyaki. The best way to get around that is to order the Hanna course set menu—with seasonal appetizers, braised oyster soup, assorted sashimi, wagu tenderloin ishiyaki, seasonal tempura, a radish and seaweed dish, three pieces of sushi, miso soup, chawanmushi, and three types of desserts—the set is an ideal way to taste as much as possible. The ambience was stunning and the food scores high marks for taste, presentation and novelty. The steamed simmering beef tongue was gobsmackingly good and had us moaning at our table like Meg Ryan in When Harry Met Sally. However, we were a little miffed that the printed menu promised sea urchin and crab meat chawanmushi, but we only got the regular kind and we were served by ditzy fresh-out-of-school girls on their first day on the job who repeatedly gave us cold tea and looked like they would much rather be elsewhere. If not for the appalling service, this place would have gotten at least four stars.