Great World is hardly glam central when it comes to the city’s malls, but it received an unexpected boost earlier this year when The Pump Room revamped its restaurant space and introduced steak specialist Pepper. Sadly, there wasn’t much they could do about the location. It’s not a place you want to come and spend serious money (unless you’re at Best Denki upstairs), and though Pepper isn’t bad value, it’s not cheap.
That’s mainly down to the signature steaks—five breeds, including Firstlight grass-fed Wagyu from New Zealand; half a dozen cuts for each with prices hovering around $40-$50, and topping out at $70. They do a good job with them, too, or at least with our ribeye Black Angus ($35); serving them all up with unlimited fries and a variety of sauces. Hard to argue with the extensive menu either; a tasty Kurobata pork chop ($25) here, some crispy pan-fried duck liver ($18) there, plus pastas, some wholesome sides and a dessert list that might just draw folks over from Cedele across the way.
Service is eager if a bit amateurish (we had to repeat our order to two separate staff, though very smiley they were); and it’s great having ready access to the Pump Room microbrews. All round a solid spot then, and were it anywhere else we’d have no hesitation in recommending it. Yet we have to put the knife in because of the location. Perhaps if you’re done shopping and just want to eat before heading home it makes sense, but if you’re in the mood for steak, there’s no shortage of places with more atmosphere; and a mere five minute walk down the river opens up options aplenty at Robertson Quay. In the meantime, we’re holding out for branch number two.
