We’ll admit we were a tad disappointed to learn of Angelo’s closing earlier in the year (it was a nice spot with dependable Italian fare), but in its place appeared Porterhouse. With dark wood ceiling beams, boarded walls, and bare tables with crisp, white paper, this is a far cry from the previously dim establishment that once was.
Did we mention that it’s now a South American steakhouse with a chef who hails from Argentina? We embraced the metamorphosis with items like ox tongue ($16) and sautéed sweetbreads ($14). The former had a pleasant enough texture, but despite the shallot vinaigrette, it bordered on being bland. Fortunately, we can’t say the same of the sautéed sweetbreads ($14), which were incredibly well-seasoned. Particularly when paired with a sweet and sticky porcini marmalade, the contrast of textures and sweet-salty flavors was definitely moreish.
Our main of duck breast and foie gras ($28) was also satisfying, and came with an unusual yet delicious sweet potato puree. Sure, the slices of duck could’ve been thinner and the quality of the pan-seared foie gras lacked the melt-in-your-mouth quality we craved, but on the whole it was a commendable effort.
Our slab of charcoal-grilled corn-fed Black Angus ribeye ($49) was mostly executed to our medium-rare specification, but at this price, we expected something more tender and with a stronger, smokier flavor. While the side of “silky mash” that accompanied it was smooth enough, it was the homemade chimichurri sauce that helped to save the day, providing a tangy, savory element to the otherwise average dish.
What service staff lack in knowledge and expertise, they made up for with their sincerity and attentiveness. While the food could do with a little tweaking, it’s still a wholly enjoyable experience for a casual, albeit a tad pricey meal with friends (just don’t expect fireworks).
