This joint has all the makings of a comfy neighborhood hangout.The food’s nothing to shout about but area residents already know to head here—and the next door gastropub by the same folks, The Trenchard Arms—when they need a respite from the fiery Peranakan grub that made Katong famous. The dishes are mild and unchallenging. Everything is a little under salted—but not egregiously so. And the place is part of a cool multi-concept restaurant, bar and hotel venue housed in a refurbished shophouse.
There are mismatched wood chairs with tartan upholstery, Pop Art paintings and ornate chandeliers, along with the building’s original coffee shop tiles and ceiling fans—it’s quite a charming setup. Music is mainstream pop—which does nothing for the atmosphere—but is at least played softly enough so that it’s not a nuisance. The starters are also uncomplicated and easy to share including the chicken liver parfait ($13.50) and an onion tartlet ($13). Mains like the fish pie topped with mash potatoes ($24)—which takes 30 minutes to prep—and hearty plates such as pork and apple sausage with bubble and squeak ($28) are not particularly exciting, but are the sort of everyday favorites regulars will appreciate.
To wash it down, they offer a proprietary buckshot ale ($9/glass, $13/pint), an IPA with less bitterness than is typical (an attempt to accommodate local tastes), which is really easy to drink. If you don’t live nearby though, it isn’t quite worth the schlep. Leave it to the East Coasters and live-in tourists, who’ll find comfort in the oh-so-standard menu.
