The hype: Relatively undiscovered and extremely underrated, Sideways serves up Mediterranean-inspired grub in an unassuming corner of Little India. The star of the show is a wood-fired brick oven the owners built from scratch, which churns out scrumptious artisan breads also sold at sister establishment The Hanger, a hop, skip and a jump away.
The vibe: Nestled in a shophouse in Little India, the intimate 30-seater takes the space of former BBQ-slash-club Broadcast HQ; it’d be a little hard to spot if it weren’t for the giant wooden front door that slides sideways. Inside, the set-up is a cozy blend of Aussie seaside cafe vibes, exposed brick, raw furnishing, and local touches like Peranakan-style floor tiling. It’s hard not to immediately fall in love with the space, whether you’re stopping in for a morning cuppa or letting loose with a tapas dinner at night.
The food: Co-owners Pav and Giulia are Australian and Italian respectively—so Mediterranean seemed like a reasonable compromise. The menu boasts a modest selection of dips and mains in dainty sharing portions, which is perfect because you’ll want a bit of everything. To start, definitely get the sourdough ($4) and pita ($4) breads—made fresh daily and served smoky from the wood-fire oven. A light char on the sourdough somehow makes it taste more personal. Keep a lookout because the restaurant intends to start retailing their bread in the coming months.
Both breads go great with Sideways’ line-up of handmade dips: the eggplant & peppers ($7) hummus and mint & feta dip ($9) are smooth, creamy and fiercely flavorful; and can easily rival those of all the other Mediterranean places in town. Get the mint & feta if you like pesto.
Breads and dips may be their star offering, but the tapas-sized mains pack just as big a punch. For something warm and hearty, the bone marrow ($12) and broth of garlic shrimps ($13) are comforting, meaty dishes that also make excellent dips for your bread. A unique dish of roasted lamb ($12) is served on Greek grape leaves, and comes with a fiery homemade harissa paste that can only be described as Mediterranean sambal. Still, our vote goes to the grilled talagani cheese ($12)—a pancake-shaped, halloumi-style cheese smeared with Greek yogurt and fig jam for a decadent marriage of sweet and savory.
The drinks: To go with its small food menu, there’s a simple selection of coffees, aperitifs, cocktails and wines. As part of their casual compromise, the owners agreed: cheeses are from Greece and Italy, but wines are from Australia—like the light-bodied, easy-drinking Brick Kiln Shiraz ($75 for a bottle). If you’re a hophead, choose from a rotating selection of five craft beers sourced from Germany, Australia, the UK and the UK.
Or just grab a latte ($5); Sideways roasts their own coffee by strict order of owner Pav, who was previously a consultant over at Sarnies.
Why you’ll be back: Decently priced Mediterranean grub, a genuine appreciation for quality bread, and a laidback set-up that’s as casual as it is comfortable; it’s enough to make you wish you lived in Little India so you could make Sideways your permanent hood hangout.
