This Chinese restaurant is cheap and—for the most part—the food is decent (the chef is an Imperial Treasure alum). There are a few standouts on the menu (which you can see the sizable kitchen team preparing in an open kitchen): The pork knuckle’s a steal at $28, offering a hefty pig leg with silken fat and tender meat; and there are lots of fun snacky things like wo wo tou ($14), hollow little buns that you fill spicy egg and shrimp stir-fry, which are straightforward and tasty. And an order of the three makes a real affordable feast.
Too bad there are also awful let downs like the braised pork ribs with homemade special sauce ($9). Despite occupying prized spot on the first page of the menu (with a large picture), the meat on our visit was utterly devoid of flavor, save for the coating of sugary sweet sauce. Plus, the sze chuan la mian with pigs’ intestine ($8.50) featured a one-dimensional broth (tasting of nothing but stale peppercorns).
Those recipes, combined with the garish décor (what might be politely described as communist chic, with ruffled red velvet chairs and colorful murals on the walls—in almost fluorescent hues—of Chinese pastoral scenes), mean that we probably won’t be back. But if you’re stuck in the area and the craving strikes, this is a convenient option that won’t burn a hole in your pocket.
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