Teahouse at China Square

The choices at this well established restaurant overwhelmed us at first, and decisions didn’t get easier as carts stopped by our table the minute we sat and thereafter every 30 seconds until we’d ordered enough food to fill our table. But once that happened, disturbance was minimal. We tried a few popular dimsum items our waiter recommended—steamed prawn dumplings, deep fried wafer rolls with fresh prawns and mango, and steamed pork ribs with black bean sauce. The dumplings were hot off the steamer, with juicy prawns packed in skin so thin we finished them in under a minute. The mango bits in the crispy wafer rolls were hardly sweet but provided variety among the meats and seafood. The lean pork ribs were tender and not too salty. But what proved superior were a la carte offers such as braised hot and sour seafood soup and braised pork belly in claypot. The pork belly was no longer simmering when the freshly steamed buns arrived to accompany it, but tasting its rich thick sauce still sent an obscene dose of guilty pleasure tingling through us. However, we did have some disappointments, such as the tough thick slices of honey glazed barbecued pork and the beancurd cutlets in braised pi pa bean curd. Teahouse (owned by restaurant group Tung Lok) is definitely a stayer in the market, and all it would take to do them justice is be a little less pushy when taking orders.