Occupying the spot that had previously been occupied by Borgo (which has since relocated further up the road to Alocassia Apartments under a slightly different name), Trattoria L’Ancora is a simple restaurant with the kind of crowd you’d expect from an affluent District 21 postcode: A mix of well-heeled locals kitted out in their Nauticas and Polos, as well as expats in their comparatively ratty T-shirts and jeans. Now, Trattoria L’Ancora’s menu is rather small and stock standards such as calamari fritti and prosciutto e melone abound (it is a trattoria after all), which may fill some of you with ennui. However, look beyond the predictability of the menu and you’ll be rewarded because the cooking here is generally very good. Case in point: The risotto saffron, a mellow and creamy dish with undertones of honey. The braised duck with handmade whole wheat pasta—a flavorful, red-sauced mess flecked with moist, tender shreds of duck— also gets the thumbs up from us, as does the grilled seafood platter. An exercise in simplicity, this dish could very easily have flopped if the seafood had been anything less than super fresh as it relies solely on the ingredients’ natural flavors. If we had a grouse, it would be that we wish the portion had been slightly larger for the price. The dessert list is not terribly inspiring but you’ll find a lovely tiramisu. Our pumpkin cake was interesting with a chewy texture not unlike that of a glutinous rice cake. It could also have done with a slightly more prominent pumpkin flavor. Service can veer from being excellent to impersonal, depending on your server. On the whole, if a straightforward meal is what you’re after, then Trattoria L’Ancora is a pretty good bet if you’re in the neighborhood.
