Upper Club

Having heard that this was the new place for tai tais and their Latin dance partners, we were surprised to find only five tables occupied at 8:45pm on Saturday. We were shown to a front row seat to the centrally located dance floor. The efficient and knowledgeable wait staff were in black tie, and the pristine white décor was accented with chandeliers, fresh flowers and candles. A very capable live band plays nightly, performing ballroom, Chinese dance hall and salsa favorites. We ordered the crispy duck salad with cucumber spaghetti, spiced pecans and soy sesame dressing and the lobster bisque with turmeric cream and lemongrass oil. The dishes were presented with aplomb, but we were aghast to see only a thimble of a serving. A shame, because the bisque was delicious, although the turmeric and lemongrass were barely discernible and the lobster medallion tough to cut with the spoon. The duck was also a light serving size and the pecans caramelized, not spiced as stated, but nonetheless enjoyable. On the maitre d’s recommendation, we ordered the pan fried beef tenderloin wrapped in prosciutto ham with baby carrots and shallot jus and pan fried trevally fillet with wild mushroom, lentils and yellow chive fricassee. These servings were more generous and very satisfying, with both dishes crisp outside and tenderly moist inside. The fricassee was also a different but satisfying accompaniment to the very fresh fish. By then, several prominent tai tais were already being spun across the floor by their young show ponies. We tucked into dessert and watched them. Our ice blended café latte, cinnamon pannacotta and bitter chocolate mousse was super sweet and surprisingly heavy, while the subtle flavor of the shallow fried parcel of pistachio ganache was drowned by its pineapple and orange chutney. When we left at 11pm, the restaurant was full, and the dancers were performing the most toe curling back dips. Will we be back? Only after serious dance lessons.