Let’s face facts: Couture fashion is expensive, ranging anywhere from $800-8,000 (and that’s just a ballpark figure). Unless you’re a tai-tai type looking for that one-off dress to wear to a high society ball, chances are you probably couldn’t care less about these mostly over-decorated or over–embellished dresses. Why should you? After all, with high street, mass and imported designer fashion still being de rigeur and way more affordable, there is seemingly no reason for the regular shopper to buy into the trend.
But a small group of couture creators are keeping the scene alive. Apart from stalwarts like Francis Cheong and Ashley Isham (see Where to Buy), younger designers like Kevin Seah are gaining ground with artisanal bespoke and couture pieces for both men and women. Operating from his small atelier at Jalan Kilang in the East, Seah’s elegant dresses and tailored jackets, shirts and pants are extremely wearable. “I’ve always loved the beauty of grandeur and working on the beautiful cloths, intricacies of embroideries and details of garments that are beyond mass produced,” he says. “Clients come to me because of the amount of handwork we put into our garments such as hand-stitched buttonholes and prick stitching which are all done by hand. We even have those looking for bespoke ties, boxer shorts and scarves, working from the selection of cloths that we have.”
Seah’s materials are all imported directly from mills in the UK and Italy, and what ready-to-wear collections lack in terms of customization and attention to details, couture provides in spades. “The work process for couture and bespoke begins with understanding the clients’ body type and their personal style. Typically I will explain to clients the construction of the garment—from the type of shoulders, either soft or structured depending on their shoulder slope; to the styles of the pieces, from the width of lapels to the height of the notch. I will then proceed to choosing of cloths (I have about 10 thousand samples) and linings that will create the look and feel of the garment.”
Couture may not be for everyone, but for the initiated, a gentle and timely reminder that thoughtful fashion is still a trend worth investing in.
Where to buy:
Ashley Isham
The first ever duplex multi-label concept store by homegrown sartorialist Ashley Isham. One-off dresses are the main draws here, alongside other selections by Farah Khan, Catherine Deane and Modern Love by Sarah Arnett.
Francis Cheong
From mama drama one off evening gowns to more contemporary dresses for ladies who lunch, this longstanding boutique is a must for those looking for glamorous standout pieces.
Kevin Seah
Apart from Seah’s selection of hand-crafted evening gowns and tailored menswear, the boutique also carries a small selection of vintage Cazal and Nackymade eyewear and Lodger shoes.
