Interview: Bhanu Inkawat (Greyhound)

From its early roots in the 80s as one of Bangkok’s most accessible and relevant street labels to its current status as one of Asia’s most contemporary menswear and womenswear brands, Greyhound remains a force to be reckoned with. Founder, chief designer and creative director Bhanu Inkawat gives us the lowdown on contemporary fashion today and what makes his 30-year-old label quintessentially Thai.
What’s the biggest shift in menswear and womenswear you’ve observed of late?
In both Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter 2011, I notice that many designers are going back to the past and drawing inspiration from there. Luxurious elegance, traditions, tailoring and meticulous hand crafting are back in style with creative, new interpretations. I also see a big movement in colors—I don’t know whether it’s a sign to the world to say “cheer up?”
What about the shift in your personal design style and aesthetics?
Greyhound’s style is all about “basic with a twist,” and each season we challenge ourselves by selecting things that surround us to inspire our design; be it art, music, people, stories or lifestyle trends. In recent years we are drawn to the fact that we have been living too long in the fast lane and that we need to slow down a bit and spend more time to enjoy and appreciate the beauty of life. You could say that we are also yearning for the beauty of the past. For example, our current Spring/Summer collection is about exploring the “untouched” nature with the theme “Wish We Were There,” while the diffusion Playhound collection is inspired by the wonderful work of Jean Michel Basquiat.
Would you say that your design has gotten more contemporary, and even European, over the years?
We have always been a street and contemporary brand, but more European or not, I don’t know. However, it could be the influence of the European buyers. Now that Greyhound is available in Paris, Moscow, Switzerland, Sweden and Berlin, we have to comply with their requests on certain items, especially Winter pieces.
How has being Thai influenced your vision and collections?
One could define Thai style, especially Bangkok style as “Beautiful Chaos.” Everything and anything goes and we live together in harmony. Greyhound style is also a sort of mix-and-match with a twist—we don’t really like a complete total look but prefer to mix things up a bit for something more intriguing. We are inspired by the idea of combining chaos with beauty.
Can you give us details about your upcoming Autumn/ Winter collection premiering at the Audi Fashion Festival?
The collection represents a symbolic troop of the new generation, getting together on a mission called “White Troop” with the hopes of changing the world. It reflects our point of view towards how the world is fast changing due to man’s consumption and greed. The collection consists of mainly white, ivory and light grey pieces to suggest that a new balance is needed. Many statements and wishes are also written, screen-printed and embroidered on T-shirts and jackets, creating a new uniform called “White Troop.”
What are some of the pieces we should be looking out for?
Basic T-shirts with various statements like “Silence,” “Make Love Not War” and “Peace Please,” and lace pieces which incorporate the peace motif.
What inspires you?
Things in general that are not derived from famous brands but from great ideas and design. People also inspire me. That’s why I love to sit in a café and watch people and the world go by. Stories too because they make things much more interesting and meaningful.
Famous last words.
Backward is the best way forward.
Greyhound’s Autumn/Winter 2011 collection premiers May 16, 9pm at Audi Fashion Festival, The Tent, Ngee Ann CIty. The current Spring/ Summer collection is available now at Front Row, #02-09 Raffles Hotel Arcade, 328 North Bridge Rd., 6224-5501.