The City of Light, the City of Love—a city where almost every street has a connection to a great name of art, music or literature—no destination captures the imagination like Paris. It’s no surprise that more than 14 million people visit the French capital each year according to Euromonitor International, making it one of the most-visited cities on the planet. Many of these visitors will stick to the iconic sights on the well-trodden tourist trail, but for those who want to see the city as Parisians do, there are many detours waiting to be discovered. Here are three to consider.
Le Marais
Place des Vosges
Every corner of Paris is steeped in history, but in Le Marais (“The Marsh” in French), you travel back to Paris as it was before the French Revolution of 1789. Instead of the grandeur of boulevards, you get a maze of charming alleys. But age is just a number here, and Le Marais is today one of the trendiest places to be in Paris.
Perhaps the best place to start your exploration of Le Marais is on Rue de Bretagne, home to dozens of restaurants, quaint shops and the Marche des Enfants Rouges (Enfants Rouges covered market), the city’s oldest covered market with a history going back to the first half of the 17th century. Its namesake just down Rue de Beauce, Les Enfants Rouges bistro is the perfect place to stop for a meal—Chef Dai Shinozuka will whip up multi-course meals of French classics with inspiration drawn from his Japanese roots.
Around the corner, you’ll find Le Carreau du Temple, a former clothes market that was transformed into a multipurpose event venue in 2014. Take a break with a coffee at Cafe Pinson or at the cafe and multi-label boutique double bill that is The Broken Arm. Le Marais is also well-known for its Jewish heritage, and a variety of traditional kosher fare can be sampled on Rue des Rosiers.
As the day winds down, perhaps after visiting Musee Picasso and people-watching at the venerable Place des Vosges, head to Le Mary Celeste, an oyster and cocktail bar that also specializes in natural wine. Try the Rain Dog, a minty mix of bourbon, amaro and lemon juice.
Where to stay: This cozy and rustic apartment is right on Rue des Rosiers.
Montmarte
Moulin Rouge; Photo credit: Alexis Viols
With the grand white domes of Sacre-Coeur basilica towering over it, the district of Montmartre boasts some of the most iconic views in all of Paris. Compared to Le Marais, the golden age of Montmarte was somewhat more recent, during the Belle Epoque (around the turn of the last century), when artists like van Gogh, Monet and Toulouse-Lautrec were seen on its cobbled streets.
As you follow these famous footsteps up the hill, be sure to traverse Rue de Abbesses to see the less touristy side of the district. For a seasonal selection of timeless and honest French cuisine a stone’s throw away from the basilica, complemented by amazing views and your choice of 150 natural wines, look no further than Le Grand 8.
Montmarte is close to Pigalle, where some of Paris’ most famous—and infamous—after-dark venues can be found (the Moulin Rouge, just to name one). But for drinks in a truly unique setting, step into the secret garden of Hotel Particulier Montmarte. The hotel’s bar, Le Tres Particulier, is familiar and mysterious in turn, and a prime spot for an evening cocktail.
Where to stay: Like the idea of lazy mornings on a seventh-floor terrace? This is just the place for you.
Latin Quarter
Notre-Dame de Paris
Crossing the Seine from Le Marais—ticking Notre-Dame de Paris off your bucket list—you arrive in Quartier Latin, the Latin Quarter, the historical intellectual heart of the city (this is where you’ll find the grounds of the Sorbonne, or University of Paris, which was succeeded by Sorbonne University, among other institutions). If you do make the journey that way, one of your first stops will be Shakespeare and Company, a legendary bookstore that remains a place to immerse yourself in the works of the diverse cast of writers who have called Paris home.
From there, it’s a short walk before you’re surrounded by the whimsical and fantastical world of La Fourmi Ailee (8 Rue du Fouarre), a tea room that’s an ideal stop for lunch, or coffee and cake. The Jardin du Luxembourg and Menagerie du Jardin des Plantes are both close by, and if you make your way to the latter, stop by Cafe Le Curieux and make yourself at home in its antique-filled interior. Before calling it a night swing by Le Piano Vache, an old-school live music venue popular among students where the repertoire spans jazz, pop, punk, rock and goth.
Where to stay: This option offers views of the Sorbonne, the Eiffel Tower and the Pantheon.
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