72 hours in Bangkok’s Old Town

 

If you’re going to the 1.) Grand Palace (Na Phra Lan Rd., +66 2623-5500. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. THB500 ($20)), it’s best to get there as early as possible to beat the worst of the heat. While it will inevitably be full of tourists, the great Buddhist architecture of Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) makes it well worth a visit. Plus, other buildings and throne halls within the Palace grounds are actually less crowded and architecturally very beautiful. Save the ticket because you can use it to enter Dusit Palace within seven days.

 

 

Within a few minutes’ walk of the palace is the latest riverside (and bike-friendly) community mall, 2.) Tha Maharaj (1/11 Trok Mahathat, Maharaj Rd., +66 2866-3163). As the stores slowly start opening, you can grab a coffee fom the riverside Starbucks as well as a few other cafes like Creamery Boutique Ice Cream (+66 9 4196-9169) and the new Gram Cafe (+66 2866-3163-4). After Tha Maharaj, make your way down Maharaj Road to check out the food stalls around Tha Phra Chan Pier, which sell stuff like moo tod and sticky rice and grilled squid. It’s also home to the 3.) Amulet Market, which is busiest on Sundays. Right by the gate of 4.) Thammasat University, be sure to grab the decently priced frozen yogurt at the ice cream joint Dairy Mix—a students’ favorite.

 

Hop on a boat and cross over to 5.) Wang Lang Pier to check out the vintage and second-hand clothes at very pocket-friendly prices. There are also lots of snack stalls, like the well-known bread loaves of Wang Lang Bakery (113 Soi Wang Lang Plaza, Arun Amarin Rd., +66 2866-1649), super cheap sushi at Sushi Wang Lang (Soi Wang Lang, Arun Amarin Rd., +66 2866-8828), and all sorts of Thai dishes lined up as you stroll through the tiny alleys.

 

Buddhaisawan Chapel, credit Chotima Sitthichaiviset

 

While on Rattanakosin Island, make time to check out some of the city’s oldest museums. You’ve got the 6.) National Museum (Na Phra That Rd., +66 2215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm), where you’ll find antiques ranging from jewelry to ancient Siamese weaponry (many of the exhibition rooms are under renovation though), as well as the 7.) National Theatre, where you can watch traditional performances throughout the year. The next show is the khon dance performance of Ramakien on May 3 at 2pm. Reserve your seat at +66 2224-1342. Walk under the Phra Pinklao Bridge if you want to make a stop at the 8.) National Gallery (4 Chao-Fa Road, opposite the National Theatre, +66 2282-2639. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm), which is currently hosting The Autopsies—Lives in BKK, an exhibition by a group of contemporary artists.

 

 

Next, make merit at 9.) City Pillar Shrine (Mahachai Rd. Open daily 7am-5pm)—a favorite of locals looking to escape Wat Phra Kaew’s crowds. Here, you can do traditional things like merit-making and gold gilding without having to suffer the stress of hundreds of tourists. It’s also right next to the well-preserved, Western-style 10.) Ministry of Defense (Ratchadamnoen Nai Rd., +66 2225-0098), constructed in 1882 and featuring a front yard filled with cannons and other artillery. A walk down Rachini Road will take you to the rather Spanish-looking 11.) Saranrom Palace and the pretty 12.) Saranrom Park (Rachini Rd.), where you can stop for a breather under the shade.

 

 

From Saranrom Park, it’s just a short walk to 13.) Museum Siam (Maharaj Rd., +66 2225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm), also known as the National Discovery Museum, which hosts multimedia presentations and interactive panels, as well as a permanent exhibition that takes you through the history of Siamese communities.

 

 

At the end of the day, loosen up with a massage at the original branch of 14.) Wat Pho Massage School (392/33-34 Soi Maharaj, Maharaj Rd. +66 2688-3551, open daily from 6am-5pm). Travelers come from all over the world to experience what’s considered to be the birthplace of traditional Thai massage. It’s THB260 ($10) for an hour of Thai massage, THB280 ($11) for a 30-minute foot massage, or THB420 ($17) for an hour.

 

There are a few nice choices to dine by the river, like 15.) The Deck at the quaint Arun Residence hotel (Maharaj Rd., +66 2221-9158). Pick an outdoor seat, or ask for seating upstairs for a nice view of the river and a more chilledout vibe. Alternatively, try 16.) Eat Sight Story (Maharaj Rd., +66 2622-2163), which was once used as a commercial dock.

 

 

Afterwards, grab a drink on the rooftop of the stylish 17.) Sala Rattanakosin (39 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388), right at the end of Tha Tien Alley. With stunning views of Wat Arun and the calm Chao Phraya River at night, it can feel like you’ve left the city.