The four valleys that make up the once independent kingdom of Bumthang aren’t exactly easy to get to. The main town of Jakar is a 12-hour drive from the capital, Thimpu, along bumpy, twisting mountain roads (locals say there’s a turn every nine seconds) that cross several passes more than 3,000m in elevation. Jakar itself sits at a breezy 2,580m. Break up the journey over several days, and, if you can, return on one of the occasional domestic flights back from Bumthang to the country’s only international airport in Paro. But make it out this far and you’re rewarded with breathtaking scenery, endless hiking trails, millennia-old temples, fascinating festivals and even Bhutan’s best beer. Here are four highlights.
Monks at Tamshing Goemba
Hiking to temples
There are some serious treks around Bumthang, with the six-day Rodang La and eight-day Duer Hot Springs treks both accessed from Jakar. There’s also the more straightforward Owl Trek (named for all the hooting at night) which takes just three days. Unlike many parts of Bhutan where a tent is pretty much unavoidable, there are plenty of day hikes or multi-stop walks with overnight stops in villages where you can relax in a traditional hot stone bath. Hiking up and down the main valley is a great way to acclimatize, and means you can take in Bumthang’s religious highlights, which include the Pelseling Goemba (lotus tree monastery) perched high above the treeline; the Jampey Lhakhang, built as far back as 659; and the Kurjey Lhakhang, a huge temple complex built into a rockface. We found temple fatigue kicking in after six or so stops, but taken alone, any one of these is an incredible experience.
Nomad Festival
Lifting giant rocks for fun
Colorful religious festivals known as tshechu—fabulous, four-day affairs that attract everyone from the surrounding region—are an important part of local life and you should try and catch at least one (check www.visitbhutanyear.com/category/events for what’s on where and when). But there are also a host of lower profile festivals in every corner of the country. We were in Bumthang in February and spent a fun day watching archery and strongman contests and trying on traditional headgear at the annual Nomad Festival, which draws herdsmen and hill tribes down from the Himalayas.
Ura
Feeling like an extra on the set of Game of Thrones
Of Bumthang’s four valleys (Chhume, Chokor, Tang and Ura) most of the action is in Chokor, but Ura in particular is worth a detour. (Look out for views of Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s highest unclimbed peak, on the journey over there.) The highest of the valleys, it offers some spectacular hiking, as well as an easy, hour-long descent through the forests to the village of Ura itself, a tiny settlement of traditional wooden farmhouses and smoking chimneys. If visiting Bhutan feels like stepping into Westeros, nowhere is that feeling more intense than in Ura. The village also plays host to its own annual festival—the lively, local liquor-fuelled Ura Yakchoe.
Trongsa Tshechu
Drinking beer named after the original firefox
The valleys of Bumthang look remarkably like Switzerland, and in fact the two countries have been actively cooperating for more than 40 years, with the Swiss introducing modern farming machinery and techniques to the previously closed-off country. The most visible and fun legacy of this project is the Swiss Farm, where cheese-making and beer brewing were first introduced to the valley. The Red Panda weissbeer, produced since 2006 by the Bumthang Brewery (+975 363 1197) in a tiny, unassuming facility (tours should be booked ahead of time and cost $6/person), is the country’s best brew, and you can pick up honey, cheese and jam for a perfect picnic from the neighboring cheese factory. It’s a five minute drive out of Jakar up the eastern side of the valley.
Essentials
Amankora Bumthang
Where to stay
Aman Resorts have five small lodges across Bhutan. Even for us mere mortals it’s worth considering a night at one, just to experience the luxury. Amankora Bumthang (from $1,270 plus 20% local charges/night, all-inclusive) sits just back from the river and houses both a functioning monastery and a crumbling royal palace within its grounds. The 16 rooms all face the huge mountains on the other side of the valley, and feature traditional wood-fired bukhari heaters. They offer a host of daily activities from farmhouse dinners to birdwatching and local astrology readings, though we were more interested in the in-house spa after a day of hiking in the hills. Another hotel that also offers great views is the newly opened 78-room Le Meridien Thimphu Bhutan’s first international-standard business hotel.
Aside from the odd night of luxury, all our accommodation was included as part of our package with Druk Asia (see below) and in Bumthang we also spent a few happy nights at the three-star, family-run Rinchenling Lodge.
When to go
March through May and September through November are neither too cold, nor too wet, though there are lots of great festivals in February if you don’t mind packing extra layers.
Drukair
Getting there
Fly from Singapore to Paro with Drukair for around $1,250 return. Flights—with layovers in Kolkata—depart Singapore on Thursdays and Saturdays, returning on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Visa and getting around
A visa is required for all visitors to Bhutan (other than Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian nationals), and can only be obtained through authorized travel agencies like Druk Asia. They can also plan and coordinate your trip, with a 10-day itinerary incorporating Paro, Thimpu, and the Punakha, Phobjika and Bumthang valleys starting from $2,510 in Summer/Winter and $3,120 for Spring/Fall, including all tourist royalties, your driver and guide, daily meals and three-star accommodation. They set us up with a truly outstanding guide, Dorji Tshering, who seemed to know everything about anything and was happy to adjust our itinerary on the fly.
Currency
$1 = 46.30 Bhutanese Ngultrum. While you’ll want a small amount of local currency for incidentals, most places where you’re likely to actually spend money will take USD. The only credit card accepted is Visa.
