For somewhere less than four hours’ flight from Singapore (yes, really), it’s strange that Sri Lanka isn’t a more popular getaway. Five years since the end of the civil war, the number of visitors has more than doubled. Journey times to many destinations have halved thanks to new highways and construction sites with five-star names line Colombo’s Galle Face Green. The country has long been a cult favorite with travelers, but it’s clear the rest of the world is finally catching on. And while the seaside town of Galle is many peoples’ favorite (if you’re a sucker for faded colonial architecture, you can’t go wrong), as a change from sweltering Singapore, there’s the cool hill country and the former Sinhalese capital of Kandy.
City Tour
First impressions, it must be said, are underwhelming. There’s not all that much to see, even when the town is not shrouded in mist, as it is much of the time. That’s not to say there’s nothing special, though. The lakeside, clues-are-in-the-name Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa; entrance LKR1000 ($9.50)), which houses a three-storey shrine as well as the World Buddhism Museum, is particularly beautiful around sunset when thousands of votive candles are lit. It’s also the focal point for the annual Kandy Esala Perahera, which runs for ten days in late July or August with thousands of dancers, drummers and even brightly decorated elephants (book at least a week in advance if you want roadside seats for next year). The British Garrison Cemetery, behind the National Museum, is another evocative and worthwhile stop (entrance is free).
Riding It Out
But the real charm of Kandy lies beyond the town, in the sprawling countryside of lush green jungle, rice terraces and tea plantations. For one thing, it’s the perfect base for exploring Central Sri Lanka. Two World Heritage sites are in striking distance, Sigiraya (a soaring rock pillar that’s the highlight of Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle) to the north and the old colonial hill station of Nuwara Eliya (nicknamed “Little England”) to the south. We recommend hiring Dhanushka of JB Travels & Tours (+94 7 2525-1020 or +94 7 6725-1020; [email protected]), whose air-conditioned Mercedes van makes the long-ish daytrip in either direction a lot more pleasant. He charges 5,500LKR ($52) for 10 hours/100km of driving, but is open to “negotiation”.
Up in the Mountains
Those are the more obvious destinations, though. In fact, the highlight of our stay was a trip into the nearby Knuckles Mountains (so named because the peaks look like a clenched fist) for some bracing hikes and breath-taking views. Very few tourists make it here, despite the fact that it’s only an hour south of Kandy, perhaps because trekking in the high massif (there are nine peaks over 1,220 meters) requires permits, a guide and for you to be self-sufficient. But the foothills are open to anyone and you can get plenty high enough (our tip: bring an ample supply of jaggery, the local unrefined cane sugar and coconut palm treat). We went with Ravindra Pinnaduwa (+94 7 7626-2626; [email protected]) who, for US$50 ($62) drove us from Kandy, helped us find our way around and took us for lunch at the rustic Corbet’s View Lodge (+94 7 7737-5977), a guesthouse perched at 990m which opens out onto a stunning panorama of the mountain range and countryside below. You can eat here even if you’re not staying, but their two simple cottages allow for an overnight stay and more time on the trails. A fantastic place if you’re serious about hiking, biking, photography—or just getting to know Sri Lanka a little better.
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ESSENTIALS
Stay
The Kandy House is an atmospheric, 200-year-old walauwa (colonial manor) 20 minutes outside Kandy. With nine simple rooms, a lawn and an infinity pool overlooking rice terraces, it’s the kind of place evening G&Ts were made for. It’s not walking distance to anywhere important, but it’s not the kind of place you’ll want to rush away from, especially on one of their twice-weekly 10-course curry nights. Rates start from $355/night. Book through Mr and Mrs Smith and you’ll enjoy a complimentary 30-minute head massage too: go to www.mrandmrssmith.com/luxury-hotels/the-kandy-house or call 800 321-1098.
The hotels in downtown Kandy aren’t much, but The Queen’s Hotel (D S Senanayake Veediya, +94 8 1222-2813), a former Governor’s residence, has a certain beat-up, 160-year-old charm, rooms from around $140/night, and is right by both the lake and the temple. For food though, cross the road to the Old Empire Hotel (21 Temple St., +94 7 7632-1867), the lobby of which is home to the new Empire Café, run by the people behind The Kandy House and serving up curries, pasta and sandwiches, as well as decent coffee and Sri Lankan-style smoothies.
The Wallawa is another stunning colonial property just a 15-minute drive from Colombo Airport. It’s perfect if you’re arriving late or leaving early, and also boasts a relaxing in-house spa. Rates start from $243/night. Again, if you book through Mr and Mrs Smith you’ll enjoy special treatment, in this case a complimentary 10 minute head massage for two. Find out more at www.mrandmrssmith.com/luxury-hotels/the-wallawwa or call 800 321-1098.
Getting There
Sri Lanka Airlines, Cathay Pacific and Emirates all offer direct flights to Colombo from Singapore, starting from around $440 return, including taxes. Singapore Airlines flies there too, for around $1,200.
Getting Around
The most scenic way to get to Kandy is by train, with stunning views of the hilly countryside. An express service leaves from Colombo Fort at 7am, arriving at 9:30am. You can book tickets (1450LKR ($14) one-way) on the ExpoRail website. Driving back will take three hours and set you back US$50 ($62); we went with Dhanushka of JB Travels & Tours (see above).
Visa
Singaporeans do not need a visa for visits of up to 30 days. Most other nationalities do, however, and need to apply online here and pay a fee of US$15-30 ($18-36). Ours were issued within just a few minutes.
Exchange Rate
105 Sri Lankan Rupees = $1
