Some days, we just want a good burger. So when MOB opened up, we thought we’d give it a go. The place is pretty much what you would expect of a typical diner in the States—white table tops and bright orange chairs, with a mobster theme thrown in. But we didn’t come here for the ambiance. It is, after all, a burger joint.
We dove right in with a chocolate milkshake. Unfortunately, the would-be milkshake was a watered down blend of ice with hardly any trace of chocolaty goodness, much like an imitation chocolate smoothie masquerading as a milkshake. (Let us state for the record that a milkshake should always be made with ice cream and milk.) The most original (and we use that term loosely here) thing about MOB is their signature, The Goodfellas, which comes with a side. A trio of burgers, connected by a bridge made up of bread, is served with fillings such as smoked duck, ebi fry or Portobello mushroom. Our side of sweet potato fries was a disappointment. Caked in a heavy tempura batter, they were just begging to be left in the deep fryer for a good five minutes more. The batter coating was oil-logged and far from crispy, while the sweet potato sticks were a little on the raw side (although we did appreciate the sprinkling of sour plum powder over them for an added sour-salty taste dimension). You know you’re in for a real treat when even deep fried food doesn’t satisfy.
We were feeling particularly carnivorous and ordered the philly cheese steak, beef bulgogi and teriyaki chicken with rosemary focaccia buns (there’s also signature brioche and plain white). Their philly cheese steak was tough and leathery, while the teriyaki chicken was well seared, if a little dry. The beef bulgogi was a pleasant surprise. Tasty and tender beef slices, with just a hint of sweetness, are stacked on sautéed onion and crisp cucumbers for a gratifying munch. Our main complaint was the texture of the bread, which was unusually chewy (some time on the grill wouldn’t hurt either).
The bumbling service staff aside, the food simply isn’t good enough. We dare say that if the mafia ate here, someone just might get whacked. Our books are staying firmly closed.
