The next chapter in chef Louis Han’s playbook of modern, Korean-inspired flavours is Gu:um – a grill-centric “mischievous sibling” concept to one-Michelin-starred Nae:um that seeks to capture the conviviality of Korean barbecue without, well, being an actual KBBQ restaurant.
Yes, that means it’ll be Han’s team working the charcoal grill – tucked in an open kitchen rather than tableside – leaving guests free to sit back in the cosily decorated, timber-heavy 40-seater space, gather around the proverbial hearth and enjoy the Korean cultural tradition of a fireside feast with friends and family.
That’s not the only departure from the norm at Gu:um, which means “to cook over fire” in Korean.
The bounty of prime seasonal meats and seafood sourced from around the world will be prepared with flashes of Western techniques and other international inflections, in line with Han’s own international journey and wealth of experience with incorporating global influences into his Korean culinary heritage.
Expect large-format proteins like Tajima Wagyu (with an MBS score of 8), USDA Prime New York Striploin and Sakura Pork Tomahawk, marinated in four different styles ranging from chilli gochujang and fermented fish sauce to just plain salt, kissed by the flame and served large-format for the entire table.
The drinks here are suitably Korean-focused, beginning with a classic selection of premium Korean soju, beer and other headier liquor, before moving into curated cocktails that best make the use of exclusive pours. A highlight label comes from South Korea’s first single malt whiskey distillery, Ki-One.
For accompaniments, you can’t go wrong with a medley of classic banchan (Korean side dishes), house-made kimchis, bibimbap served in a traditional Korean cast iron pot or “sot”, and other Korean-style street snacks given a modern makeover.
An example is the Honey Butter Corn, which features corn done three ways – pureed, sliced and chargrilled as individual kernels – on brioche for textural magic.
Desserts also play on the Korean culinary canon, with flairs including the Hotteok – a warm Korean rice flour pancake oozing with cinnamon and brown sugar, here paired with burnt honey ice cream and mixed nuts – and a Yuzu Makgeolli, which features the iconic cloudy rice wine incorporated into a sorbet with yuzu, served alongside a grilled pear.
Gu:um is at 29 Keong Saik Road, Singapore 089136. Make your reservations here.
Photos: John Heng, Da Photographer
