Brasserie Gavroche

There’s been an unmissable renaissance of old school-inspired French brasseries, with Brasserie Gavroche leading the recent charge. Chef and owner Frédéric Colin, formerly The St. Regis Singapore’s executive chef, and his wife, Charlotte, have gone to great lengths to create this nostalgic throwback. Before you even step in (tip: be sure to look out for the street number as there’s no signage), the pale green wooden doors with pretty iron grills and bronze handles ooze French allure, while details such as black-and-white photos of Colin’s chef grandpa Henri and a gorgeous 1930s wooden bar counter from the original Parisian Café de la Paix complete the desired effect.

But it’s not just the furniture and finishings, the mostly French waitstaff (Charlotte walks around the dining room making recommendations and taking orders) and very French soundtracks playing in the background that effectively channel Paris, it’s also the menu built of classic dishes that does it. Skip the conservative portion of Périgord foie gras terrine ($28) in favor of the Grandpa Henri’s baked pork terrine with duck liver ($26), the latter’s remniscent of a country-style offering not often seen in Singapore. A rustic dish that’s more unusual is another homage to grandpa Henri, three light and fluffy fish quenelles soaking in an addictive crayfish sauce ($35). The less adventurous would do well with a helping of Angus sirloin steak frites ($48) with Béarnaise sauce and some of the most delish and resilient fries we’ve had in a while.

There’s no doubt prices run on the steeper end of things and food, while good, could do to be more consistent, but if it’s a winning atmosphere you’re after, they’ve got it in spades. Plus, you can pretend you’re in Paris for as long as you’re there.

Don’t miss: Quenelle de poisson. It’s one of I-S Magazine’s 50 things to eat in Singapore before you die (2012).