Our recent visit started out well—the place is gorgeous. Set against a backdrop of Nature’s finest in the evening, this entirely open-air restaurant has a rural monastery feel to it (be prepared for hungry mozzies), thanks to all-in-black waitstaff wearing slippers, loads of wood and bamboo, and bell-shaped lantern-like lampshades hanging from the ceiling which bathe it in soft tones that set the mood. A newly-introduced appetizer, goat cheese mousse ($19) caught our eye; while the savory quality of the light mild cheese played nicely against caramelized pear cubes, the tom yum tomato salad that accompanied it clashed with the other components. We went with our server’s recommendations for mains, the signature silver cod ($34) and baked chicken thigh with vanilla-pomelo salad and sea salt caramel ($24). The white-miso marinated fish in lemongrass-mirin broth lacked balance both texture- and flavor-wise, with a dominant note of sweetness and not a hint of acid to be found. Even more of a letdown was the chicken. We could overlook the measly tablespoon of mash as well as the fact that the pomelo didn’t have the slightest hint of vanilla, but not the undercooked bird; a redeeming factor was its crisp skin (always a plus), although we’d be lying if we said we finished the dish. Sure, service was better than average and the ambiance is undoubtedly alluring, but the quality of the food (and at prices like these too) just doesn’t cut it.
When the weather is good, eating outside can be a truly enjoyable dining experience. These joints with charming open air areas are just the place to dine on breezy evenings.
