Not long ago, we reviewed Zento, the sushi restaurant run by Gunawan Wibisono, protégé of Japanese Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto. Well, it looks like Dempsey has gotten itself another Iron Chef alumnus—this time in the figure of Hiroki Yoshitake, who spent three years training under Hiroyuki Sakai (i.e. the French one) at his Tokyo restaurant, La Rochelle. Yoshitake was away in Japan when we visited Hiroki88, and it speaks volumes about the caliber of the team in the kitchen that the food was fantastic despite his absence. Now, while Hiroki88@Infusion isn’t exactly the most elegant moniker for a restaurant, rest assured that it does not live up to the clunkiness of its name. Encased in a sleek glass contraption, the restaurant is all clean lines and light—a reflection of Yoshitake’s simple, understated style. There’s no a la carte at Hiroki88; you choose a minimum of three courses (a starter, a meat or fish entrée, and a dessert) from the menu. Prices start at $48++ and let us tell you, it is a steal. The food here is pure class—gorgeously plated with a dash of playfulness, and above all, delicious. Foie gras may be a menu cliché these days but you wouldn’t think that here; our foie gras with soft golden brown egg was a quivering delight that melted like a dream. A succession of hits soon followed—pan-fried prawns with mozzarella (so simple, but so good); a perfectly grilled lamb loin bearing just the faintest whiff of rosemary; herbed panko-coated swordfish (swoon). As for dessert, it is absolutely essential that you order the chocolate banana tart—a cleverly deconstructed textural and visual surprise. We really hope that this four-month-old restaurant maintains its standards and doesn’t start sucking—like most other newbies—six months down the road. We’ll definitely be back to see what else chef Yoshitake can do. In the meantime, when is Chen Kenichi’s protégé coming to Dempsey to set up shop and complete the trinity?
