It really seems like Katong and Joo Chiat are where all things cool in the east are happening, with new food spots such as Fatboy’s the Burger Bar, Mookata, Malacca Celup and Pavé—not to mention five-star Tonny Restaurant—sprouting up over the last year. Just down the road from Tonny’s place, Joo Hing isn’t one of these shiny new establishments. This is an old school tze char eatery, as traditional as they come. Even on a weeknight (post-peak dinner madness), the place was packed with families and groups of friends all busy chowing down. Even without asking the surprisingly friendly owner about his recommendations, a quick glance around revealed their signature steamed fish head ($18). We had to have that, of course, along with sambal kang kong ($8), prawn paste chicken ($8) and steamed minced pork ($8). Our veggies arrived first, looking a fitting shade of green and particularly handsome flecked with specks of chili. They were aromatic, savory and spicy, and also had the crunch you’d expect from vegetables done just right. As we dug in, the familiar smell of prawn paste announced the arrival of our chicken. Although it smelled tantalizing, the deep-fried chicken was a bit of a let down— simply not crisp enough for us and on the greasy side of things, although the delicious chili sauce that accompanied it went some way to making it go down easier. The minced pork, accented by slivers of salted fish, was a scrumptious home-style treat we couldn’t get enough of (we dare say as good as grandma used to make). But it was the fish head that stole the show. The incredibly fresh and tender fish was perfumed with spicy black bean paste and showered with crispy pork lard, making the slightly spicy and salty combination of flavors thoroughly enjoyable. If you’re looking for a very wallet-friendly joint with good tze char and decent service, give this a go. It may be a bit of a trek out, but it’s worth it.
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