A Loh Lik Peng project, The Market Grill was almost a guaranteed hit. The man’s name alone (for the uninitiated, he’s the guy behind Pollen and Esquina) is known to draw crowds. And in spite of the restaurant’s generic name and basic menu, the no reservations-joint has been packed since opening. That’s not to say the success is undeserved. The place is casual but cool: industrial looking (nothing new here), with an open-concept kitchen. And their simple diner grub is executed almost faultlessly. We’d contend that the burgers—hand-formed to weigh 150g each—are the best in town. Particularly well-balanced is the CW Bleu Cheese ($24), a rich mineral-y beef patty topped with funky blue cheese, sweet caramelized onions and smokey bacon. The genius is that they use classic French techniques to elevate seemingly plain recipes. Their choice of steaks—which includes a commendable selection of tricky-to-prepare but economical off cuts like ox tongue ($36) and brisket ($37)—are expertly cooked, and come to with addictive duck fat-infused sarladaise potatoes (to rival those served at even the best fine dining spots). Service is great, too. The staff (who work for tips—there’s no service charge), are full of American-style good cheer, offering up their favorites from the menu, and reciting the long list of daily specials with impressive accuracy. This is the perfect go-to when you’re craving comfort food, and it does the job fantastically.
Eat this at The Market Grill: CW Blue Cheese. It’s one of I-S Magazine’s 50 things to eat before you die (2013).
