We were pretty sad when the cozy and chef-driven Sorrel closed, but now there are two reasons to be happy: not only is the space now home to the wonderful Cheek by Jowl, Sorrel’s rising star chef Alex Phan, who sharpened his knives at Tippling Club and Open Door Policy, is now running a market-to-table concept at Restaurant Ember, working with local wet markets and kelongs (the meats are still the fancy, imported kind). Get the local sea bass with tomato butter and wild fungus, and the scallops with cauliflower and preserved lemon.