Q&A with Carlos Celdran, Filipino tour guide and performing artist

Describe Manila in ten words or less.

Manila is a Rorschach test and a state of mind. 

Your favorite place in Manila that isn’t on your tour?

The San Sebastian Church. An eccentric all metal gothic church located in the Quiapo district. It’s awe inspiring and it’s in the middle of nowhere. 

Your favorite local dish?

Sinuglaw. Philippine ceviche made with fresh fish, vinegar, chillies, and topped with grilled pork. It is taken best with a freezing San Miguel Beer. 

The question you get asked most frequently on your walking tours?

Where is there a good place to see the sunset?

And the answer?

Harbour View Restaurant at the Quirino Grandstand. [The] second most asked [is] why is Manila such a mess. My answer: We never got over the destruction of the entire city at the end of World War 2. 

How would you describe the fashion sense of Manila’s thirty-somethings?

Practical. 

How has the city changed in the past ten years?

It’s become more hospitable. Believe it or not, smoke-belching levels from automobiles have gone down and traffic is not as much of a nightmare as it was. The creative scene has also exploded and hotels have improved. But we still have a long way to go. There’s always room for more improvement. 

The one thing you wish tourists would stop doing?

Stop skipping Manila.